Backyard Oyster Roast: Grill-Roasted Lowcountry Oysters with Garlic Butter

There is an old rule about eating oysters only in months with an "R" in them, and in the Lowcountry it still sets the calendar. When the water cools in the fall, local oysters come back into season, and oyster roasts start showing up on every church, school and neighborhood calendar from Beaufort to Savannah.

A roast is part meal and part social event. A shovel of steaming oysters hits a plywood table, everyone grabs a knife and a glove, and the evening goes on until the last bushel is gone. It is also surprisingly easy to host at home.

Local cluster oysters are the traditional choice for a roast. They grow in clumps on the intertidal flats, and they are what you will find by the bushel at local seafood markets in the fall.

• How many? Plan on roughly one bushel for every four to six people if oysters are the main event. Serious oyster eaters will go through more.
• Freshness. Oysters should smell like clean seawater, feel heavy for their size, and be tightly closed. Discard any with cracked shells or any that stay open when tapped.
• Storage. Keep them cold and covered with a damp towel. Never store live oysters in fresh water or sealed in plastic.
• Cleaning. Rinse and scrub off mud with a stiff brush and a hose right before cooking.

SERVES 6 AS A MAIN, 12 AS AN APPETIZER

Ingredients — the oysters

• 1 bushel local cluster oysters, or 5 to 6 dozen single oysters, scrubbed
• 1 burlap sack or old towel, soaked in water (for the traditional method)

Ingredients — garlic-lemon butter

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
• 6 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
• ½ teaspoon smoked paprika
• ½ teaspoon hot sauce, or to taste
• Pinch of kosher salt

For the table

• Saltine crackers
• Cocktail sauce and hot sauce
• Lemon wedges
• Oyster knives and heavy gloves for every guest

Method

1. 1Make the butter: melt the butter over low heat in a small saucepan or a cast iron skillet on the side burner. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes until fragrant but not browned. Stir in the lemon juice, zest, parsley, paprika, hot sauce and salt. Keep warm.
2. 2Heat the grill to high, around 450°F to 500°F.
3. 3Arrange oysters on the grates in a single layer, cupped side down when you can tell, so the liquor stays in the shell.
4. 4For a traditional steam, lay the wet burlap over the oysters. Otherwise, close the lid.
5. 5Roast 6 to 10 minutes, until the shells begin to open slightly and the liquor bubbles. Cluster oysters vary in size, so pull them as they are ready.
6. 6Shovel or tong them onto the table. Discard any that did not open.
7. 7Pry each oyster open at the hinge with a knife, loosen the meat, and spoon a little garlic butter over it. Eat it on a saltine or straight from the shell.

• Gloves, always. Oyster shells are sharp and hot. A heavy glove on the holding hand prevents most cuts.
• Cook them through. Roasting until the shells open and the liquor bubbles is the safe standard. Raw and undercooked shellfish carry a higher risk, especially for anyone with a weakened immune system.
• Roast in batches. Keep oysters coming in rounds so they are always hot on the table.
• Have a trash can at the table. A hole cut in the middle of a plywood table over a can is the traditional solution, and it is brilliant.
• Keep the butter warm. A small cast iron pan on the grill's edge keeps it liquid all night. A Smithey skillet is perfect for this.

• Chili or Frogmore stew for the guests who do not eat oysters. Our Frogmore stew recipe feeds a crowd.
• Hushpuppies with honey butter
• Cold beer, a crisp Muscadet, or a dry sparkling wine
• A fire table nearby for when the sun goes down. See our guide to fire pit tables and patio heaters.

The table is the heart of a roast. A long, sturdy table you can hose down afterward is ideal. Poly lumber from Berlin Gardens handles it well, or build a dedicated plywood oyster table with a center hole for shells.

The grill should be close to the table so the cook can shovel oysters straight over. An outdoor kitchen with a gas grill or a Big Green Egg in a Challenger island, plus a side burner for the butter, makes a roast almost effortless.

Planning your first roast at home? Stop by the showroom and we will help you choose the grill, cookware and outdoor table to make it a tradition.

Terrace + Tide is at 13 New Orleans Road on Hilton Head Island, Tuesday through Friday 10 to 5, Saturday 10 to 4, and Monday by appointment. Call us at (843) 715-0927.